Recommended Reading for Perfumers
Fragrance Guide – Feminine Notes – Masculine Notes
Haarmann & Reimer : 2nd Edition 1991 Hamburg : R. Gloess : OOP
By popular demand Vols 2 & 3 of The H&R Book were update and combined in a single volume sometimes known in the trade as ‘ H&R’s Book Volume 5’. Covers the descriptions of 800 fragrances.
Introduction to Perfumery
Tony Curtis & David G. Williams : Ellis Horwood 1994 (Paperback 752 pp) : ISBN 0-13-491614-X : $75
This book gives a good overview of the perfumery industry and the materials and techiques used in the creation and manufacture of perfumes. Tony Curtis brings his experience as an MBA and perfumery business course leader to the content and David Williams over 24 years of teaching perfumery courses to the book. The book is good for those interested in an academic style of training and a must read for those thinking of starting their own business in the field of perfumery. It explains the basic chemistry considerations of aroma chemicals in an easy to read and understand way and is good for those without a chemistry background. It uses a strange odour classification using a 3 letter system for each note that detracts from the otherwise well laid out content (WRM for warm or LOV for Lily-of-the-Valley do not seem to achieve anything that could not be performed by using the full names with a smaller font).
Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Aroma Chemicals) – 2 vols
Steffen Arctander : Montclair NJ USA : 1969 : $510
The standard reference work of perfumer’s and flavourists, 30 years old but really still very relevant. During his life Steffen Arctander was a little bitter that his work was not recognised (private communication with author). But now the Bible of Perfumery, 3102 monographs on Aroma chemicals their uses in flavours and perfumes.
Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin
Steffen Arctander : Elizabeth NJ USA : 1960 : $300
The standard reference work on natural materials for perfumers and flavourists. Not as deep as the previous favorite – The Essential Oils – Guenther (1948) but the easy read compact monograph was ahead of its time and specifically geared with its descriptions and usage suggestions for the perfumer and flavourist. And yes, 40 years on it is still a must on the perfumers shelf. Unfortunately many of the oils covered have all but disappeared from the market.
Perfume Legends – French Feminine Fragrances
Michael Edwards & HM Editions France 1996 (296 pp) : ISBN 0-646-27794-4 : $75
Michael’s work comes from a novel point of view, that has been, up until this book, largely overlooked. The creation of a fragrance from the angle of the perfumer. Michael has interviewed perfumers responsible for some of the great landmarks in perfumery in this century and followed the story of 44 of the greatest fragrances of the period. He follows the trail from the inception of the idea through to the development of each finished fragrance.We are asked regularly “What does a perfumer do?” We can think of no better way to answer this than direct them to Michael Edwards outstanding work. Beautifully printed and presented with hundreds of photographs and illustrations that make it equally at home on the perfumers library shelves or on display the table top. A book that can be flicked through but with a subject depth that makes it a must for the perfumery student.
Perfumery : Practice and Principles
R. R. Calkin & J. S. Jellinek : Chapman Hall 1994 (287pp) : ISBN 0471589349 :$120
A good work for the would be perfumer and trainee perfumer. Both the authors have extensive experience in training perfumers and the work covers the essence of the subject of perfumery as a career and techniques of creation and compounding.
The H&R Book
Haarmann & Reimer : German Edition 1984/85 Hamburg : English 1984 Johnson : OOP
Vol. 1 The H&R Book of Perfume : Julia Muller
Vol. 2 Fragrance Guide Feminine Notes : Julia Muller, Peter Worner, Egon Oelkers
Vol. 3 Fragrance Guide Masculine Notes : Julia Muller, Peter Worner, Egon Oelkers
Vol. 4 Guide to Fragrance Ingredients : Rudiger hall, Dieter Klemme, Dr. Jurgen Nienhaus
A four book set which is an excellent introduction to perfumery for the beginner. Covers the History, materials and methods of perfume manufacture. The descriptions of 100’s of mens and womens fragrances make a work as yet unequalled as a reference for the perfumer. Using terms for descriptions that can be understood clearly by even for the poorest noses.